Before talking about all-rounders in the skin care industry today, let's first understand what photoaging is, its harm to our skin and its principle.
Photoaging is the result of long-term exposure to solar radiation, including ultraviolet (UV), Visible light and infrared light (IR). Over time, this exposure will lead to cumulative damage, skin changes and structural degradation. These effects are wrinkles, abnormal pigment, texture changes, elastic tissue hyperplasia, volume reduction, telangiectasia and hyperkeratosis, which together lead to premature skin aging
*The data comes from《Anti-photoaging》
Photoaging is mainly driven by solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR). There are three kinds of solar ultraviolet radiation, namely UVA(315-400nm), UVB(280-315nm) and UVC(100-280nm).
Both UVA and UVB can cause skin damage, but their effects are different mainly due to their penetration depth. Evidently richer UVA can penetrate deeper into the dermis and is more directly related to photoaging, because they will produce ROS and degrade collagen and elastin, which will lead to wrinkles, skin elasticity loss and other signs of premature aging. In contrast, UVB mainly affects the epidermis, causing sunburn (solar erythema) and melanin production in the short term, while long-term exposure can lead to hyperkeratosis and significantly increase the risk of skin malignant tumors.
*The picture comes from the network.
The increase of ROS level caused by UV radiation plays a key role in photoaging. The main signal pathway mediated by ROS leads to ECM degradation, oxidative stress, inflammation and cell cycle arrest (aging) in skin cells.
① DNA damage
DNA damage caused by UV radiation is the main cause of skin cancer. UVA interacts with endogenous photosensitizers (such as porphyrin and NADH) in mitochondria to produce high concentration of ROS, and produces 8- hydroxydeoxyguanosine (8-ohdG), which eventually indirectly leads to DNA damage and mutation.
② Decreased antioxidant capacity
PI3K/AKT/Nrf2 signaling pathway can protect human keratinocytes (HaCaT) from oxidative damage induced by ultraviolet rays.
③ Inflammatory reaction -NF-κB signaling pathway
When irradiated by inflammatory ultraviolet rays, IKB kinase IKK is activated, and the activated IKK induces phosphorylation of IKK, which activates NF-κB transcription factors in fibroblasts and keratinocytes, leading to the secretion of pro-inflammatory cytokines (TNF-α, IL-1, IL-6), resulting in inflammatory reaction.
In addition to ultraviolet radiation, visible light is also one of the main factors of photoaging. It was found that visible light significantly increased the expression of MMP1 and MMP9 in human skin, and decreased the expression of procollagen type I. Therefore, the characterization of photoaging needs to consider a wider electromagnetic spectrum, including the influence of visible light on skin health and aging, which is of great significance to photoprotection and prevention strategies.
*The data comes from the influence of visible light on skin health
As shown in the above figure, visible light has a great influence on the skin, because this band has a deeper penetration depth into the skin. Red light can penetrate the epidermis and dermis, and reach the fat layer, indicating the relationship between wavelength and penetration depth and the inverse relationship between wavelength and energy, while blue light has higher energy and less penetration depth than red light.
Infrared rays, especially IR-A(760-1440nm) radiation, lead to photoaging by penetrating deep into skin and destroying dermal ECM. IR-A mainly targets dermal fibroblasts, which are the key cells responsible for maintaining skin structure and elasticity. In these fibroblasts, IR-A induces the expression of MMP-1 by activating transcription factors such as MAPK pathway and AP-1, resulting in the loss of collagen and skin elasticity.
To sum up, having said that, let's reveal the answer together. It is ekdoline. Nowadays, no matter how new the raw materials are, the ekdoline that keeps its original heart is on the list, and it touches the skin with its natural effects, so why are more and more products added with ekdoline? Below, let's learn more about how ekdoline comprehensively fights photoaging！
In 2004, Merck Research Institute published an article detailing the mechanism of the prevention of skin photoaging caused by ultraviolet rays. The results of human experiments show that the icodoline can inhibit the cell damage induced by ultraviolet rays, thus inhibiting the aging process of keratinocytes and fibroblasts.
*The data comes from "What is ekdoline? What's the role? 》
In addition, ekdoline can also prevent the chain reaction caused by UVA (long wave ultraviolet) irradiation and prevent the mt-DNA mutation induced by UVA.
*The data comes from "What is ekdoline? What's the role? 》
At present, Ectoin has been widely used in skin care products, enzyme preparations and biomedicine and other related fields. For example, some functional products with a large acid content or antioxidant content will add Ectoin to help the skin reduce sensitivity and irritation while gaining benefits. A large number of sunscreen products will use Ectoin to increase the skin's ability to resist ultraviolet rays.
INCI Name：Ectoin
Description: white powder
Content：≥99.9%
Suggested addition amount：0.1~7%
New product express: 10 micron level、no need to dissolve, can be directly used for makeup.
Makeup spray: make makeup such as foundation better integrated, prevent makeup from coming off and fading, and form a light and durable protective film.
Foundation products:It can even the skin color and conceal the blemishes, and at the same time, it can use its moisturizing and repairing functions to reduce the dryness and irritation of foundation on the skin and make the skin comfortable and natural.
Powder make-up such as eye shadow and blush: it can not only ensure the color presentation and durability, but also protect the skin of eyes and cheeks during use and reduce the damage to the skin caused by makeup residue.
